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May 22, 2013, 01:26:10 AM

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northernscout

May 04, 2013, 07:30:30 PM
Hi, I'm a long way away from home and so forgot my password, etc so am starting anew. My call sign is VA7DH and I guess I should have used that as a handle instead of northernscout. Sigh!  Anyway I am Victoria BC STake communication specialist and Victoria BC 2nd ward emergency preparedness speciali

kalspa55

March 28, 2013, 07:58:57 PM
Hello I have been just called as a ERC Welfare Missionary in the Philippines. So happens that I am also a HAM. There is ERC-ERS Echolink conference..How do I get hooked up with them

jkschaumann

December 30, 2012, 10:17:54 PM
Jon Schaumann WØKZ from St. Louis, Missouri. Licensed about 4 years with my wife. Just really gettimg my feet wet. Slowly working on CW. Propagation between here and the West is generally acceptable. Greetings and I look forward to communicating with you.

W7KBH

March 05, 2012, 06:08:28 PM
To: N7YLA - Both LDSHAMS & WW-MARA are both up and running - We had Nevada Power put in new digital meters (Not my idea) - and it whacked LDSMAMS - which had been running for almost a year 320+ days straight w/o a hitch.  BTW - CQICC is also mine - It is up - but I cant access it - Im checking into

N7YLA

March 01, 2012, 07:53:25 AM
The LDSHAMS Echolink node appears to be offline.  When will it be back online?

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Recent Posts

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1
Antenna related / Re: 2 Meter Slimjim
« Last post by northernscout on May 04, 2013, 09:05:24 PM »
I agree, the Slim Jim is a great antenna for the meager cost involved in building it. There are a couple of suggestions on the ldsradio.ca Antennas section. One is basically made of aluminum tubing from old TV antenna parts and the other is a roll up antenna that's a great performer made from Radio Shack 300 ohm twin lead. If you make antennas be sure to test their VSWR before putting a lot of power intoi them. Bad a bad match can ruin the finals in your transceiver.
2
General Discussion / New to LDS Hams, but with things to contribute
« Last post by dennis7400 on April 20, 2013, 03:22:08 PM »
   Much to my embarrassment, I have just discovered LDS Hams.  WOW.  What a resource for hams within the Church.  I have been responsible for encouraging emergency communications within the 63 stakes in northern California and western Nevada for about 6 years now.  We have HF nets that cover the area described above, as well as 2 meter nets for as many as we can hear.  Many stakes have established their own nets, and have licensed 30+ hams in several stakes.

   We also conduct a get-together meeting annually.  We have a general meeting in which 160 to 180 attenc, where we provide information that we want all to hear.  We then have classes that are conducted on various subjects.  Some may include antenna building, what type of equipment to purchase - and on a budget, digital communications, and many other subjects.  If 4 classes are taught, they are taught 4 times.  That way, everyone can attend all classes, or one class 4 times if they want to.  The meeting is well received.  We always have demo antennas set up outside, along with other show-and-tell items.  To see some of the content of past meetings, go to http://www.ercinfo.webs.com

  I have found over the years, that many LDS hams obtain their license, but have little direction on what to do.  I wrote a book that explains everything.  You can see it at amazon.  The title is The Emergency Response Communications Handbook.  I'm not a business person, so I don't make much on it, but that's not its purpose.  The hard copy is $4 and the Kindle version is $2.

  I do have a product that sells pretty well and works well.  You can see it at http://www.jpoleadapter.webs.com

  Thank you for allowing me to post this.  I will be a regular visitor.  You can reach me at dennis7400@sbcglobal.net

  From Dennis, AF6TR
3
Antenna related / Re: Confused about the different Antenna (RF) connectors?
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 01:09:58 PM »
The BNC connectors are so nice to use for making quick connections but they aren't well suited for high power, the UHF connectors (PL-259 and SO-239) are easier to use than type N's. The type N's have far less loss than the UHF PL259 connectors at UHF and beyond. You will often find that on dual band radios there is a female N for connector for 440 MHz and a female UHF SO-239 style connector for 146 MHz. 

How silly is it to call PL-259 connectors UHF connectors when we don't want to use them for that. It goes back to early days of radar.  Confusing isn't it?

I don't believe that N connectors are sealed well enough for outside use without some protection, same with BNC connectors and UHF connectors. I used to work at remote radio sites and the seals were forever breaking down in the very bad weather conditions encounterd.

 I use a self vulcanizing tape for that and it's available from plumbing and electrical supply stores. In my case I got some tape from Home Depot. You put a layer of vinyl electrical tape over the connectors and apply it with sticky side out. This is to protect the connector from the self vulcanizing tape which once it pulls in is very hard to remove if you ever wish to reuse the connector. Then cut off about 4 inches of the self vulcanizing tape and apply it, stretching it all the while. You don't need a very thick layer. Do stretch some over the cable itself, beyond the vinyl tape previously applied. If you need more simply cut another piece and stretch and apply. When you feel the connection is well protected go over it again with a layer of vinyl tape to protect it all from UV. It also holds the vulcanizing tape in place while that pulls itself in and fill in any remaining voids. Great stuff. Locally it costs me about $9 for a roll but a roll goes a long way because you use very little per connection.
4
Antenna related / Re: NVIS - hamsticks or dipoles
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 12:46:46 PM »
I had a loop around my home also supported with irrigation pipe at the corners until the wind finally snapped one off. Mine was made with a 2" and 3" pole telescopically arranged rather than one so there was a fair torque in the wind. Of course mine happened to snap off and crash to the roof over my bedroom after I came home from the hospital after having a Whipple procedure. It sounded like the world was finally coming to an end. Naaah, it was just noisy. My wife, VA7EJH, took instructions from me quite well and removed the broken pole and wires off to the side of the house until I healed up and could get at it again.

The loop had worked fairly well but now I am using an Alpha Delta DX-CC antenna which is around 30 feet up and it's working fine, maybe even a little better than the loop. It was all for working NVIS so does a good job. The DX-CC is being fed via a SGC-230 tuner on the outside of the house up via 450 ohm ladder line. Virtually almost zero loss and unlimited bandwidth.

Donn / VA7DH
ldsradio.ca
5
Antenna related / Power solutions
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 12:36:22 PM »
There are four type of power available, switching power supplies, analog power supplies, batteries, and fuel powered generators.  Each supply has it's pluses and minuses.

Analog supplies: reliable but heavy. They consist of an iron core transformer, rectifier, filter, and voltage regulator. That big transformer being the large body of weight. Analog supplies tend to be more expensive because of the large transformer with all the copper on it and the use of larger more expensive filter capacitors. Still, electrical noise from analog supplies is similar  to batteries, almost none existant.

Switching supplies: light weight less expensive, sometimes electronically noisy. These supplies have a rectifier, filter, switching circuit with ferrite core transformer, smaller final filters and voltage regulator. It's the switching transients that can be bothersome, mostly to HF radio gear. Military grade switching supplies are very quiet. You sort of get what you pay for with switching supplies. Some manufacturers take stupid shortcuts. Make sure you can take it back if it's not suitable. Go to the eHam reviews and see what other users have reported before putting your money down.

Battery power: reliable, quiet. Of course there are different kinds of batteries, the kind we have in our hand helds, lap tops, power tools, and then there are the lead acid types in our vehicles or in our ham shacks. I will just mention the lead acid batteries. There are float batteries and then there are sealed batteries. Float batteries must be kept out doors or in a ventilated space, vented to outside. They give off sulfurous fumes when being charged plus hydrogen and oxygen, an explosive mixture in presence of an ignition source. Float batteries must be checked often, a monthly schedule may be adequate and the fluid topped up with "distilled" water. No other water should ever be added to lead acid batteries. Water occurring naturally has minerals dissolved in it which will gradually neutralize the acid making the battery useless.

All lead acid batteries need to be kept charged up. A small smart charger used to keep up powered wheel chair batteries or golf cart batteries would do the job. A pulse type charger is good if you can afford the extra cost. Pulse chargers are claimed to help cut sulphation problems and make the batteries live longer. I use a 110 amp hour AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery for my ham shack. It's sealed but if it were dropped the acid would mostly stay withing the cracked casing of the battery and remain absorbed in the glass mat. Nice safety feature.  If you deep discharge any lead acid battery there will likely be some sulphation. Each time there is additional sulphation you lose some battery capacity until all you have is water, lead plates, and sulfur at the bottom of the battery. So, be good to your batteries if you want them to last.

Generators: There are lots of choices to make in gen sets. If you are going to run your household from one then you need to assess your needs and buy accordingly. Gen sets rated at 5 KW may seem adequate but then it depends on the nature of the loads being placed on it. Lights are a fairly stable load once lit, whereas an induction motor on something like an air compressor will flatten the generator and may cause a brown out. This is because starting current for an induction motor may be over twice what it states on its plate.

If you only want a gen set for a light and your radio then your needs may be a lot less. Perhaps a 2KW Honda Inverter generator may be what you need. The inverter generators have a constant voltage and frequency output because they do a conversion internally so doesn't matter what the RPM is, the frequency and voltage out are stable unless you overdo it with the load. You just need to remember to stop the generator periodically and check the oil level, change it if it's dirty, and make sure you have adequate reserves of gas or diesel. There  are propane gen sets too and they have benefits and draw backs. Propane left sitting for a few years will still burn in your propane gen set so is a great emergency fuel. On the other hand where are you going to go to get propane if yours runs out. A gas or diesel gen set is easier to find fuel for especially if you have a farm and a big reservoir for tractors, that sort of thing. Both diesel and gas have their problems. Gas gets oxidized over time and diesel grows a form of algae. So rotate your fuel every 3 or 4 months by burning it off in your vehicles and replacing with fresh.

O/K that's it from me. Hope this has been of help to someone.

Donn / VA7DH
ldsradio.ca
6
Antenna related / Re: Antenna solutions
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 11:56:53 AM »
I noted that someone mentioned putting an antenna in the fibreglass steeple. Not always a great solution because many if not all of the the fibreglass steeples have a lightning rod in them so that detunes what could have been a great antenna.
We ran into a problem something like that but what I did is install a Comet GP-6 antenna on top of a length of steel pipe inside the enclosure for the HVAC equipment. It's surrounded with a hedge, so completely out of sight. The base of the pipe is on a hinge fastened to the pipe frame of the fence and can be tilted up and locked in place. There is a length of LMR-400 going down from it and rolled up when not in use. It has a BNC type connector on the end. When we want to use it we take out an Icom IC-208H radio from a locked cupboard c/w switching power supply and external speaker. We have an RG-8X coax cable to go from the radio to the end of the cable from the antenna and make that connection through an open window. When we are finished we roll up the coax's, unlock the antenna and lower it into a cradle (like  a saw horse). Close the window,lock up the radio gear, go home. When the antenna is lowered there is absolutely no complaint from anyone. Most people don't know it exists.

HF radio antennas are another problem. I suggest an end fed antenna c/w antenna tuner (I like the SGC autotuners).

I found a nice end fed antenna on eBay and then looked it up on eHam for reviews and this one seemed to get good reviews. The nice thing is you don't have to deal with center feeding and minor problems that can be. Just haul one end up into a tree or the peak of someone's roof or up using a telescopic pole. The end being fed needs to be only about 10 feet or so up. That would make a sloper for you. Lots of ways to support that kind of antenna.

When I searched for end fed antennas on eBay I came across QSO King and Easy Tenna. They are from the same place but the QSO King is for those people  with a linear putting out lots of power and the Easy Tenna is almost identical but designed for lower power rigs like my old Yaesu FT-847. I bought the 53 footer which is supposed to support bands from 6m to 160 meters. It did have some good writeup for it on eHam. You will need an external tuner for those antennas, not likely a radio's internal antenna tuner would have broad enough range for some of the bands. I bought the 53 footer because I don't know where I may need to set up in an emergency and the space may be limited. If you want to get the most signal out you would want the maximum length available. I'd suggest that only if you have a specific site to set up.



VA7DH
ldsradio.ca
7
Antenna related / Re: Antenna to Donate to Church
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 11:34:18 AM »
The Budipole antenna would be a great item for any ward or stake to have to complement what they may have for scout camps. I can't think of anything better than one of those, a Yaesu FT-817 radio, and a small autotuner, maybe also some spare battery power. Besides think of all those little scouts needing some extra weight to carry.
8
Antenna related / Experiences with cheap Chinese hand held radios
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 11:29:01 AM »
I just thought that this may be a great avenue to chat about some of the new radios coming out of China. There are some bargains to be had. They generally are not of the same build quality of the Japanese radios such as Kenwood, Yaesu, and Icom brands but still they do seem to work and some have great benefits.

I recently purchased a Baofeng UV-5R II radio with programming cable, drop in charger, PTT earphone (neat invention), and a 3,600 ma battery and it came to about $60 total and included free shipping. I had difficulty with the supplied driver disk for the programming cable and so got a driver off the internet:  http://www.miklor.com/uv5r/UV5R-Drivers.html

I also did not like the programming software that came with the radio so ended up using Chirp software: 

http://chirp.danplanet.com/projects/chirp/wiki/Home

That is really amazing free software. One of the first things I did was program the band edges of the ham bands for 2m and 70cm (440 MHz band). The radios come wide open from China 130 to about 170 MHz and similar on the UHF band. Not a healthy situatuion because you or one of your kids could inadvertently transmit out-of-band and get in trouble.

One problem with newer radios like the Chinese ones and newer Japanese ones is that they have so many things to set in software. They can do a lot and there are lots of options to choose in signalling, etc. One nice thing about the newer Chinese radios over the older ones is that they can provide a voice to tell you what channel you are on with a voice and you can select Chinese, English, or none. The English voice is now what sounds like a good American female voice, nice and easy to understand. You will likely need to use the software to set the radio up. Most of us are lost trying to set it all up manually. One thing most up us have noticed is that the speaker on the Baofeng UV-5R radios is quite tinny so an earphone helps a lot. Also, the rubber duck antenna is not very good so a better antenna could be added. Another help is something called a rat tail that can be attached to the radio simply with a self adhesive Velcro and boost the signal by at least twice. A rat tail is a bit of insulated wire about 19" long connected to a small plate that capacitively couples to the back of your radio and acts like the other half of a dipole antenna. It works quite well. You can buy one or build it yourself.

http://rattailantenna.com/

Wouxun is another brand I have some experience with. The radios I know about are the KG-UVD1P and the KG-UV-6D. Both cover the 2m and 70cm ham bands and then a little more similar to the Baofeng described above. Many of the characteristics are the same but the Wouxuns have a little more transmit power out and the receivers seem to be built better and speaker output not so tinny. The KG-UV-6D is probably the best choice. It seems to be built best with a better speaker plus it has more ability to shed the rain. I would use the Chirp software for programming the radio and you may find that if yours comes with a programming cable you may want to go to the same web site at I listed for the Baofeng for driver software for the cable. 

Regarding Chirp programming software - it covers a big range of radios unlike RT Systems software which I also like but where you have to buy a separate package for every make and model radio you need to support. With Chirp you "first" down load the load in the radio before programming. I assume that the software can tell from that what adjustments it needs to make before you get started. Anyway, I think it's quite amazing and I like the price - "0"    :-)

That's it for now. I may put up a posting for setting for getting started with the Baofeng UV5R a little later. Save you some grief.


9
Antenna related / Re: Church Office Building HF beams
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 10:24:55 AM »
Glad to know that I am not the only one who has struggled with the issue of radios in church buildings. There are radios in the main Bishop's Storehouses (primary) and the equipment including a tilt tower is supplied by Salt Lk. The secondary Bishop's Storehouses seem to be on their own, same with Stake Buildings. As far as I have been able to discern regarding that the church has left that in the hands of stake leaders and Bishop's Storehouse people. Many bishop's storehouses are in leased buildings and many of the owners of those buildings do not  want large antennas on top of their structures. One way around that is to have remote antennas and HF radios at members residences and a control via VHF or UHF radio at the storehouse or stake building.  It's just money. Yes, the buildings people can be very dogged in their view of amateur radio and equipment in buildings. Just talk nicely to them and point out that amateur radio is the only thing that may get through in a major disaster. We seem to be in those times foretold in the scriptures - you know - the latter days when things start going sideways. Best to be prepared and communications helps us to work together when the going gets rough.

73

VA7DH
ldsradio.ca
10
Antenna related / Re: Building a Beam Antenna
« Last post by VA7DH on April 13, 2013, 10:06:43 AM »
Hi, you must have not been fortunate in finding the right antenna literature. Yes, there is a difference at to whether the boom is conductibe (aluminum round or square tube) or whether it is made of fibreglass, PVC, or wood. If the elements are floated off the conductive beam they will still be affected by the proximity of the beam and so the lengths will be slightlly different. Wood makes a nice beam to support elements but you need to treat it so it doesn't rot. PVC can be used but it tends to get a little droopy especially in the heat so you need to support the ends. I just found an interesting web site at -

http://www.mydarc.de/dk7zb/PVC-Yagis/PVC-details.htm

You can see some PVC boom Yagis there and how he has supported them. I find that filling the inside with a wood dowel helps stiffen them some. One article I read mentioned that metal beams can have the elements fastened to them but beware of corrosion products that can cause noise where the elements are fastened. This can be a real problem where I live and am enveloped with a sea side atmosphere, has salt in the air and rain. By insulating the elements he claims that problem doesn't exist. Another way would be to TIG weld the elements to the boom. If you are using a non conductive boom then that problem would not exist.
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